Day 12 Sunday June 2

Pack up the gear. Leave the house. Bruce had discovered a bus that went straight to Shinjuku so we crowded on with our gear. When we got to Shinjuku the plan was to store our gear. We found lockers to fit our bags but to store our guitars we had to go to a different part of the station. Took a few photos to remind us where they were. And then we went for a final shop. 

First we went to guitar street where I finally managed to get a guitar bag that might keep my guitar safe. Soft body hard sides and lots of bubble wrap. At the airport I would wrap it with gaffa tape too.

Back to Shinjuku Last minute souvenirs and records. Came back to the station and of course we couldn’t find the lockers. Frantically searching and with the help of the information desk we found them. Then we had to find the Narita express with 10 minutes before it took off. Shinjuku is a big station with millions of people moving through it daily. But with a lot of asking we made it with 4 minutes to spare. 

At the check-in desk we weighed in with a total of 141 kg. That’s 9 kg too spare.  As we bought guitars and other things we had been keeping check of the total weight and it had worked out well. Luckily they didn’t weigh my bag of records or Rod’s bag of gear that we carried on our backs because they would have tipped the scales.

We bought some last minute duty free and spent the remaining cash on our Suica cards on food and fridge magnets. Oh and beer.

Then we boarded the plane home. Sad to say goodbye to Japan. 

Gorilla*

Rock Juice

The Fadeaways

It was just brilliant. An unforgettable experience. With fantastic people. So much thank you must go to Atsushi for organising the gigs. He did a great job and made sure we were alright.  Can't wait to go back there again.

The Mellvins

That's A No No

The Highmarts

Fifi

Gorilla with Fifi*

....and those bands. Incredible.

Day 11 Saturday June 23

Our last gig today. We decide to leave at 9.30am on the dot to give ourselves plenty of time to get to the meeting spot. 9.25am Bruce walks out in a towel. He may be late but he's clean. Doesn't take long to get going though and we get there in plenty of time. We're travelling to Yokohama with Gorilla*. It’s an afternoon gig so we meet at Shibuya next to the Hachiko statue. Everyone is busy watching a kitten who is sitting under the dog. Then someone comes along and puts the cat in a bag. It's raining and with no signs of letting up.

We meet Suzu, Atsushi and the rest of Gorilla and they will be leading us to the venue. It’s a 40 minute train trip and when we get to Yokohama we all quickly get off with all our guitars and things. When we look around we realise that Frank is not with us. I have to admit I fell asleep on the train too but the band woke me up. Nobody woke up Frank and he continued on the journey. Atsushi texted him and eventually he found is way back to us. Next we went in three seperate taxis to this record shop/coffee shop called L. 

Waiting for the gig Atsushi pointed out that the quiet guy at the table was from an English band called Fluff from about 1971. He got this info from the cafe owner. He wanted me to go and say hello and introduce him. Which I did. They have such a deep love of music here and dig deep. Very deep. Atsushi talks to him for a while. It's a record shop too and I pick up a few girl group albums. They have the Jangle Band album here too which reminds me of the co-launch we did with them a few years back.

The back line was 3 little Vox amps, a tiny drum kit and one microphone. Gorilla* kicked off and sounded great. And despite our worries about the minimal equipment when we played it sounded excellent. Maybe because the crowd were well into it. It was the afternoon so we didn’t go crazy but we were there to have fun.

At the end we thanked Atsushi for all his work with the tour and I gave him a signed copy of the Little Murders first single “Things Will Be Different”  Very hard to get and he was very appreciative. He kissed me all over my head! As a special request he got Bruce and Choc to play Thirteen by Big Star.

And so the tour was ending. We all got back into taxis and went to the station then off to Shibuya. We said our goodbyes and though it would have been good to have one more catch up at Poor Cow there were gigs for bands to play and it wouldn’t be opening until after 11.30pm. We were too tired for that. 

Bruce and Choc went for one more wander in the early evening and Bruce came back with Teenage fan club “Songs From Northern Britain” record. From the same shop I had been into 3 times in the last two weeks. Okay he paid 100 bucks for it but still and was a little peeved. I've been looking for that every time I came to Japan. Luckily they are re releasing it in August. 

Day 10 Friday June 21

Great night’s sleep at last. A few of the guys do a bit of washing. Rod, Chirpy and I have tickets to the Artlab Digital Museum. A feast for the eye as they say. I have the wrong address and at first we end up at Roppongi which is quite a distance away from where we should be. Chirpy is quite sick of underground trains by now. But eventually we get to our destination. Some kind of entertainment complex. The final part of the train ride is pretty cool in a driverless train soaring above the buildings and landing us at Tokyo Bay.

When we get there the queue goes on forever which doesn’t make Rod very happy. Still it moves faster than expected and we’re soon in and it’s pretty amazing. Like walking inside a Pink Floyd light show. I can’t describe it in words but some of the rooms were quite mind blowing. We lose Chirpy straight away and won’t see him until later. Rod and I leave and go back to guitar street.

Rod buys himself a beautiful red Fender Telecaster. A birthday present for himself. I look in vain for a hard case for my Epiphone. Nothing. So we head home.

Tonight we’re playing Heavy Sick which is in walking distance. So we walk the streets of Tokyo once more with all our gear. It's a warm night and feels good walking the narrow streets.

Hiroshi

I have heard so much about Heavy Sick I’m very excited to be playing there. We do our soundcheck and find out we have a band room to stow our guitars. It’s a bit freaky when you realise that the band room is outside the club and the first door on the left. So we put our stuff in there. There’s no lock but no one seems worried so I don’t. Well, a little. But every time I go there someone is doing something. Always a girl getting ready. One thing I loved in Japan is the amount of females in bands. At some of our gigs the female musicians outnumbered the males. Made it a much more diverse and exciting scene. 

with the Mellvins

Heavy Sick as two smallish rooms. One is the band room and the other is a kind of bar. Again we’re playing with great bands. High Marts are on and they sound fabulous. The Mellvins are on next. I’ve been a fan since the Halloween Ball last year and they don’t disappoint. Both bands are all girl bands. That’s A No No open with Pictures of Matchstick Men and play with style. We come on and get another great reaction from the crowd. They singalong to our songs. They punch the air and I join them for Kids are Alright. I know this kind of thing might never happen in Melbourne so I soak it up because it’s going to have to last me for a few years until we can come back. Sam from Young Parisian is there taking great photos of the night. Actually quite a few of the Garage Scenes movers and shakers are there for the gig. We are followed by Gorilla* who play a great set. I come away with their song “Forever” stuck in my head. They move themselves off the stage and into the audience which is a great move.

Frank plays some great discs as does Hariota. Afterwards we hang out in the front bar for ages until everyone makes to leave for the last trains. A brilliant night. We walk home feeling very elated and grab a bottle of red to finish off.

Day 9 Thursday June 21

Time to move out of the hostel . Thank god. We pack up all our stuff and head for Setagaya. We used the credit from Air BnB to get ourselves a very nice place to finish off the tour. Get to the closest station but just when we think we are close Google Maps let’s us down. Damn. I message the contact from the station. One minute later a guy asks if I’m Rob. Quick service indeed. Seems he was on the same train as us and saw us and the message. He proceeds to walk us to our house. Yes house. We’re only dropping our bags off and coming back later but just putting our stuff in the door we can see it’s quite big in Japanese terms. 

We go off and get something to eat and while Bruce and Choc go off exploring we return and claim our rooms. I’m a bit averse to narrow and steep steps so I take the bottom room by myself and Chirpy and Rod get their own rooms too. Bruce and Choc share. We can really stretch out here and other than a quick explore of the neighbourhood we take it easy.

After a bite to eat we head off to Poor Cow in Shimo-Kitazawa. Tonight we’re playing an acoustic set. We carry minimal instruments on the 20 minute walk to the venue set up and play the set acoustically. Not many people there but it’s fun and a great atmosphere. Someone asks for Mary Anne which is a song I haven’t played since 1980. I get through half of it. But then I break a string and that’s the end of the show because we have no more strings.

Jonestown then get their moment in the spotlight. Bruce and Choc perform one of their originals and a cover of Thirteen by Big Star. It goes down well.  We sell a few Cds and drink with our friends and our new friends. Everyone starts putting records on. Fifi as so many records there and so many genres. He keeps his record collection at the bar. And he doesn't seem to mind people taking turns putting records on. Atsushi appears with a bunch of food that he bought down on the street. It's great and like so many times on the tour I haven't eaten in ages so I go down the 3 flights of stairs and get some take-away. We stay long past the train finishing and while a couple walk home the rest of us taxi home.

Day 8 Wednesday June 20

Stompin' Riff Raffs

The boys are off exploring again today so today I go looking in Shimo-Kitazawa for presents for the kids with Poz. Wev meet at the same coffee shop as last week but it seems like ages ago.

Get a few t-shirts, explore a few record shops and find a shop that is full of Japanese dolls and I pick one up for Liz. Lots of great second hand stores here and someone would need 5 suitcases and a pile of money to get the things you wanted home. What would you do if you lived here? I don't know.

Frank and I

 Toyozo as put us on the door for Nicki Corvette tonite at Shimo-Kitazawa Three. Bruce and Choc have been out looking for Mt. Fuji today so they don’t come with us. Bruce turns up later for a few minutes but he’s quickly gone. We meet up with Poz, Yol and Erin there. And our guest DJ Frank. It’s a small venue. But a little bigger than our ones.  

Gorrilla* start the night and they’re great. They are a fantastic power pop band and a bunch of lovely guts too. The Fadeaways play a blistering set and Toyozo does a flip while playing guitar. The energy puts off the stage. They're are followed by The Stompin’ Riff Riffs. They are just as good as the previous two bands. The girls all wear robber masks. The keyboard player uses a theremin. Young Parisian add a touch of glam to the night.  So much good stuff. It’s mind blowing. Nicki Corvette did a great set too. Going to gigs in Japan is never boring. audience love it. And so do we.

Toyozo and I

I chat to Bryce at the Merch stand. He’s married to the drummer of the Stompin’ Riff Raffs. Off the Hip are trying to get the Fadeaways to come to Australia. I tell him The Stompin’ Raffs should come too. he explains the problems that might arise. The bands want to bring their own gear because it's part of what the bands are. They're afraid of getting turned back at the Australian airport. I must admit that I had some of the same fear coming to Tokyo. What if they questioned our guitars CDs and drumsticks et al? But damn it,  it would be great to load up a plane with all these bands and blow Australian minds.

I plan to meet Toyozo back at Poor Cow but we decide to grab a bite to eat first and head off to our favourite Japanese Pancake place. We have too good a time there and go too late and then realise we have to catch the last train home. I message/apologise to Toyoza and realise I won't be able to catch up now because he's off on tour with Nicki Corvette until after we leave. 

Should of gone to Poor Cow but the band are playing there tomorrow night so we make our way back to the station and back to the hostel. Last night there thank god. Tomorrow we move to nicer digs.

Day 7 Tuesday June 19

Wake up fine and Bruce and Choc have already gone exploring. I decide I will take it easy today just in case. Watch some Netflix on the iPad. Read a book. Get some rest. 

But although I am a bit miserable and melancholy from such a stupid thing happening I get restless and go with Chirpy and Rod to Hakihabara to look at the great department stores, the toy shops and electronics. Yodobashi camera is a department store with like everything in it. Chirpy finds equipment for his home recording. I marvel at the amount of incredible beautiful turntables and amplifiers they have. The toy department is immense. Really it's all just immense.

We walk towards the street with Super Potato on it, stopping off to check out Book Off to see if they have any Manga in English. (by the way the best Book Off was actually Hard Off in Shimokitizawa. Full of guitars, amps, etc. Great place. Can't remember which day we went there!) No luck. Walk past all the maids trying to tempt us into the maid cafes. Check out all the arcade machines in Super Potato. Chirpy buys a heap of crazy lollies for his kids. They have so many there.

That night I organise to meet up with Yol, Erin  and Poz in Shimo-Kitazawa. I go by myself. Poz as just got back from Osaka where he escaped the earthquake which was pretty major and where 9 people have died. It took him a while to get out with all sorts of transportation down. train and bus routes were all affected. And there were warnings of a quake happening again. 

Meet at the West Exit at Kitizawa. We go for a pizza and then wander around for a little while. Seeing the old telephone boxes I try and get myself a Ziggy Stardust type picture going. I tried.

Yol and Erin go home while Poz and went to the UK pub to see the World Cup. It’s crowded and fun and Japan win their match. Nippon Nippon. The UK pub is interesting for all the sixties icons on the wall. Great little displays. Even Blackpool get a mention. 

Another long day but the melancholy as lifted and I’m feeling human again. Back on the train to Shinjuku.

Day 6 Monday June 18

The first of our three days rest.  Gradually we all get up and go wandering Tokyo. I watch Bruce wander off from the roof of the hostel. Consulting his Rome2rio app on his phone. Showing him where to go. I use Hyperdia and Google maps. We're both looking for the best directions. In the end I think we both just relied on Google maps because it seemed to work much better than the apps. 

A few of us start washing our clothes which are pretty dirty from the hot and sweaty gigs. The washing machine is alright but the dryer is useless. The Canadian ahead of me as had her clothes in there for two hours and they are still wet. I try fewer clothes. I let the clothes dry for a short while and then just drape them around my bunk bed. 

Rod is quite ill with the flu and rests for the day. We would all meet up later for dinner. I go shopping for some records and manga books. Look for a guitar case so I can get my guitar back to Melbourne in one piece. The wheels on my suitcase are quite stuffed so I also look for a new suitcase. Eventually I just buy gaffe tape instead and wrap the bottom of my case up. Solved. 

Gradually we all make it back to the hostel. Bad news is that there is no spare room for the snorers. Somebody as moved into the room opposite. 

We were going to Shibuya to try Gekko Sushi but the band decides to eat locally and we walk down to a local restaurant where they are playing the World Cup. Rod and I have a Suntory whisky before we go out. At the restaurant we drink plenty of beer and saki. Maybe too much. The clue was when I tried to flush the toilet and I couldn't get the button to work. I kept pushing until it went in. Then I realised I just pushed in the lid of the sensor. I spent a few minutes trying to replace it but was unable to. I'm sure it would be an easy fix but not then. Guiltily I left the restaurant without telling them. I suppose I got a bit of karma when I got back to the hostel.

When we get back to the hostel later we go up to the roof and drink some more. The rooftop meeting place is excellent with a great view over Shinjuku. The roof is slippery and Rod nearly slips over. This should of been a warning because when I decide to leave before the others I slip as I’m walking down the wet stairs. Not that I remember slipping. When Bruce comes down a few minutes later he sees me at the bottom of the stairs unconscious. 

The band then proceed to get me down the two flights to our room which takes them about 10 minutes in my unconscious form. I wake up just as we are going through the door feeling totally out of place. I was having such a nice dream too. This is where someone comes up with the theory that maybe I slid down the stairs then just fell asleep. Can you dream when you're unconscious? I refuse to google that. When I discuss this with others they always ask if I saw a light. They put me on the bed and there is much discussion as to whether as should go to hospital and they consider calling an ambulance. I’m a bit in shock and go from shuddering to quite emotional. We don’t go to hospital but they keep me awake and Chirpy talks to me to make sure I’m alright. Chirpy is an ex-footballer whose probably seen some concussions in his time so I trust his judgement. Not that I am in any state to make decisions. But I think he did a good job of looking after me.

Eventually I go to sleep but I wake up at about 4 am and the room is very quiet. Bruce wakes up too and asks if I’m alright and I’m fine. Can’t believe it happened. No headaches and no pain. I feel fine except for a bit of soreness around my neck and shoulders the next day.

* as a footnote to this incident when I got back to Melbourne I saw my doctor and he organised an MRI scan which pronounced everything fine.

Day 5 Sunday June 17

The train ride from our local station to Tokyo went quite smoothly. Our new abode was only one stop away from Shinjuku. Easy to get to. However once we saw the room we would be staying in we were quite shocked at the smallness of it. 5 adults in one bedroom. In a hostel. Yikes.

How did we get to this? 3 days before we left for Japan we I got a message that our Air BnB in Tokyo for the final week was cancelled. The money was refunded plus we got a credit voucher for twice the amount. This should of proved to be easy with plenty of money to spend however there was absolutely nothing for a group of 5. I found 3 but they were incredibly expensive or miles away from the main hub. As in towards Yokohama. So I took the hostel for the first part of the week and got a nice place with the voucher for the second half.

Seeing the room and knowing we had a couple of snorers I went down to the desk and got them to give us another room just for them. Which was great. But it turned out to be just for the one night.

Atsushi

There wasn’t time to really explore because we had a gig at the Green Apple in Keonji. So just putting our stuff away and changing into our gig clothes we were back on the train. It was only a few stops away and we were there in no time and also well on time. Got to hear a bit of the Fadeaways and then Rock Juice sound checking. Toyoza and I swapped a few records and I got the new Fadeaways 10” 

The room was bright orange and looked like a coffee shop. No stage. But the sound was great. Gorilla* sound checked after us and since they were performing first we went down to the Irish pub downstairs for some dinner. 

Before we do we put our guitars in the backstage cupboard. Wall to wall guitar bags. No cars for bands here so everyone as guitar bags for the train. Frank Cotterell, former head of Waterfront Records joined us at the Irish pub. He was going to be DJing at most of our gigs from now on. Clearly he is besotted by Japan and no wonder. It’s probably the coolest place in the world. Frank as different records for each night and boy as he got some cool stuff in those boxes. Fifi (from Poor Cow) and Suzu would be playing records too.

Rocking with the Mellvins

Nearly miss out on Gorilla* and I end up leaving my drink behind and rushing upstairs. Glad I did because they are a great power pop band. Fifi joins them for a cover of the Innocents “Sooner or Later”. The Fadeaways are great and so are Rock Juice. Rock Juice play a song off their forthcoming album and I'm already singing along by the final chorus. Basically bands over here are great fullstop. 

We come on and blister our way through the set finishing off with “The Kids Are Alright” I finish up singing within the crowd with people crowding around the microphone. Including Atsushi and Fifi. at one stage I was crawling through the crowd. Then they helped me up as I feigned weakness. I guess I just got caught up in the sheer enthusiasm of the crowd. The Mellvins were there at the front. Rod got the rock god guitarist treatment. He was definitely rocking out.

Guitar God

Rod with Tomoko of Supersnazz, The Tweezers and Rock Juice fame

We come off sweaty and go over to the merch desk to sell some records and t-shirts. The 3000 yen for t-shirt and CD is quite popular. We make money on the merch and then somehow I lose money. God knows how but it’s gone. Not going to let it worry me and just write it off quickly so as to not let it get in the way of our enjoyment. Suzu plays a Rubettes song "Jukebox Jive" and I almost feel like dancing.

We’re tired and exhausted but there is an afterparty around the corner and we must go. This time it’s all the other bands and we drink and chat and Fifi tells me it’s the best gig he’s seen in ten years. I try my first Saki on this trip. And then my second.

 Eventually it’s time to go. We’ve missed the last train and the band decide to walk again. I’m not in the mood so Rod and I jump in a taxi but we take all the guitars. The rest of the guys are happy to stroll home. And have a beer at the 7-11 on the way home.

I don't hear them when they come back.

Toyozo (The Fadeaways) and the Mellvins up front

Day 4 Saturday June 16

Woke up to messages from the last Air BnB. Could I please check everyone’s bags once more before they get the police involved. Checked. Then I had to write a police report. 

Beautiful day so the first thing we do is work out how far it was to walk to our gig. We're playing at a studio called artYARD. 10 minutes. Great. Then we kept walking into Osaka. Neon wall not so fabulous (well it still looks great) as at night but we would come back after the gig. Or so we thought. Record shops, guitar shops, clothes shops. Toy shops too. Just drifted around. Rod makes a purchase at Time Bomb records. 5, 6,7,8s t-shirts for his girls. One of my favourite record shops in the world! Look for King Kong records around the corner but it's gone. Spent time in another guitar shop Julian Wu had recommended. Chirpy found a drum store.

Got lost once more. . Turns out I was leading them to a place I remembered from Tokyo. Oh dear. Time ran away.

Went back and picked up our stuff for soundcheck. Again a little late. Again messages. We really need to get to the gigs on time. We’re only 5 minutes late so it wasn’t that bad. 

The gig looks like a studio. Like a TV studio. No lights. Well just like normal lights. Set up. Go through 3 songs then off to get something to eat. 

Come back for the gig. The band goes into a little bar downstairs while I go upstairs to let them know we’re here. The bands are so good I can’t get away. Poz and Yol and Erin turn up with a couple of other friends and Yol takes over merchandise again. The vinyl is gone long before we start. Two guys do papers scissors rock to decide who get's the last "Baby It's You" single. Could of brought a lot more.

The bands on before us are all brilliant. The Original Mixed Up Kids. The Wimpy's and the Zip. All top notch bands. The Wimpy's are a power pop punk band. Get the album. It's great. The Zip are one of Osaka's top Mod bands. If not the tops! The DJs have our first record on display and play it quite a few times during the night. They can't believe Little Murders are in Osaka. Neither can we sometimes.

We come on at 8.45pm and it’s another great night. It's strange to have so many people in front of us wearing Little Murders t-shirts.  Our first crowd surfing since 1981. We're old enough now to worry they might fall and hurt themselves. Everyone is going nuts and someone knocks out the leads on Rod’s effect pedals. Rod is not happy but soon gets it together and we're off again. During the Kids Are Alright encore I leave the stage (well cross the floor actually since there isn't a stage)  and sing amongst the crowd which is great. Poz joins in to. The band sound fantastic. The floor is wet with beer. Everyone is sweating in the heat. Brilliant.

Merch is sold. Photographs are taken. The lead singer of the Zip asks for the set list. It is completely doused in beer. Modern art indeed. 

Then we are invited to the After Party. First we want to drop off our guitars. A few of the crowd follow us but we explain that we’re just dropping off guitars. Some of us want to see Osaka at night but will pop into the party first.We go to the After Party. It’s at a restaurant around the corner from the gig. When we arrive the whole crowded restaurant claps and cheers. We have to climb over seats and tables to get to a spot and as each person goes down they are applauded. We have a great time and forget all about Osaka at night. This is too much fun. Our hosts are fabulous and I spend a lot of time talking about Australian power pop bands. They are particularly interested in the Riptides and the Innocents and are happy to hear about the times we played with both bands. The food is delicious and the beer goes down well. 

What a brilliant night. At the end we all go outside and pose with a large banner which says Target Maark ...the name of the event. A regular one I think. The night is unforgettable, not only because the gig was so much fun but meeting the people who came to our gig and eating and drinking with them was so much fun.

Tomorrow back to Tokyo.